5.7  Seven Pitches  West Recess  Whatever gear you can throw at it up to 4" and some slings for knobs.

P1  Start in the chimney/crack system towards the right side of the base that goes right of the giant roof.  Follow it to the base of a chimney section.

P2  Climb the chimney and continue until you pass the roof.

P3  Keep going to a grassy ledge before a headwall.

P4  Up and left on chicken heads to the ridge.

P5  Left a bit to and up a short layback corner.

P6/7 Two more 4th and low 5th class pitches wandering up the ridge.  Gain the summit by traversing around on its left.

FA: Skip Gaynard and friend 1973

Descend along either side.


Silliman Point, also known as Point 10,247, lies south of Mount Silliman accross the cirque containing Silliman Lake.  It is a sloping buttress with solid granite in a picturesque alpine setting.  It cannot be seen from very many aspects, save for a clear shot from Wucksachi Lodge.  Adventurous souls have surely scrambled on it for decades but I have never seen any sign of their passage.  The approach is pretty brutal but it is very worth it, especially if you get a big meal at the exceptional Wucksachi restaurant to replenish the calories and electrolytes lost.


From Lodgepole, take the trail north towards Twin Lakes and Silliman Meadow.  After a couple miles when you reach Silliman Creek take the use trail along its southern shore.  This is the most popular route to Mount Silliman.  Follow the trail to Silliman Meadow where you get a view straight up hill of the giant roof on west face of Silliman Point.  Cross the meadow and go up until you're tired, then go further until you get there.  All in all you gain about 3,000 feet in roughly three miles!

Silliman Point